I just
got back from one of the coolest vacations I have ever been on - Rincon, Puerto
Rico. Not only did I somewhat learn to surf, get appropriately
beaten up by the Ocean, and drink some awesome drinks, I also met some
great people, saw amazing views and learned that we – American Civilization
have it all wrong.
So
surfing-- #22 on the list. One of the hardest sports I have ever
tried. It’s not about getting up on the wave, honestly, that’s the easy part.
Swimming out and passing the break, now that’s the hard stuff. I got pulled
around by the Ocean, a very powerful force of nature may I add. But I conquered
it and I even got to ride a bunch of waves. The thrill of standing on the board
and riding the wave is just so awesome. It was a liberating feeling to see the
ocean almost come around you. Even when you are sitting and waiting for a wave to come
being in the middle of the Ocean and feeling the sun on your skin, the waves
between your toes, it’s pretty damn perfect. Ok, I
didn’t want to come back. I wanted to become a surf bum, change the pace of my
life and stop sitting behind a desk. ( I mean surf bum with the highest regard and utmost respect. I say it out of jealousy.) But low and behold, I am sadly back to
reality, sitting behind a desk and working on excel spreadsheets. I learned a
few things though on this trip:
- The Ocean is not a scary place you just have to take it head on – literally and figuratively.
- We here in America (or Canada) have it all wrong. We should not be working 9 – 5 days, we should see the sun, have fun everyday, and put our phones away.
- You can live anywhere you want and find a way to do what you love to do.
- We talk about what we will do when we retire, have more money but why wait? We have every reason not to.
That is a lot to take in and for the most part highly
unrealistic, but at least they are thoughts I should keep in the back of my
mind. In the mean time I will look for cheap flights that get me back to Rincon
and out on a surf board sometime soon.
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